How It Tastes
Lush fruit liqueur aromatics lead into the floral passion fruit tartness with sweet, juicy island fruits and plenty of Guatemala chocolate to back it up. A clean cup with a long finish that really lingers. Using the natural process on this incredible hybrid blasts it well into the stratosphere.
Oversized beans. Outstanding aromatics. Only a few bags are produced of this heirloom Pacamara variety, on the finest estate in the Americas. Moreover, our friend Estuardo Falla chose to sun-dry this coffee by the natural method, leaving the whole fruit on the seeds, which imbues the cup with a lush fruitiness to complement the flowery aromatics and pristine acidity. We visit the estate every year, the ground of a fifty-year friendship, and our Roastmaster remembers distinctly discovering this coffee, as it bloomed on the tasting table in a blind cupping. “The aroma was stunning, even for a farm known for coffees of aromatic prowess—usually in the high-cacao chocolate and vanilla bean vein. I have known Pacamara for my whole career—this rare cultivar has always been the subject of fascination for coffee buyers, just like its elephantine parent, the Maragogipe variety, created a hundred years ago by spontaneous mutation in Brazil.” The trouble with the Pacamara cross is that it can be unstable, inconsistently producing the stellar cup, and, like Maragogipe, low yielding.
I’ve never known it like this. Grown on an experimental block high on the volcano at Finca San Sebastián, then carefully dried in its natural sugars, the result is floral passion fruit tartness with sweet, juicy island fruits and plenty of Guatemala chocolate to back it up. I can only describe this small miracle as a micro lot of macro beans. And there is only enough to do a limited roast, rationed out in half pound bags. You can enjoy it if you move quickly…and give thanks to Estuardo!
-Doug Welsh, Roastmaster